SPEARFISH — Since 2011, people have fallen in love with Dough Trader Pizza and its homemade sourdough crusts.
The popular restaurant now has a sister business — Dough Fairy Delights, a bread and dessert bakery using the same sourdough starter for its base.
Dough Fairy Delights, located at 543 W. Jackson Blvd., is the brainchild of Lori Miller, who has worked at the Dough Trader for the past three years.
“Last summer, we were trying to come up with a unique dessert. Everyone asked, ‘Why don’t you have a dessert pizza?’ Well, everyone has a dessert pizza,” Miller said. “Something on TV caught my eye. A woman was baking sweets with sourdough. That triggered it, and I said, ‘Yeah, that would be unique.’”
So she, along with Sarah Ponwith, who has worked at Dough Trader Pizza for a year, headed into the kitchen and started experimenting with recipes.
The chocolate cupcakes and chocolate chip cookies were the first out of the oven.
Then, when Dough Trader Pizza owner Kristen Bell and friend Ava Sauter opened Good Day Café, just across the parking lot in December, breads were developed to be served at the cafe.
Now Dough Fairy Delights offers its Good Day bread, caraway rye bread, focaccia, tomato basil garlic bread, cinnamon raisin bread, rhubarb crumble, and of course its cupcakes and cookies.
“I’ve never had anything like it before,” Ponwith said of the sourdough delights. “… So far everyone loves it. We’ve had people come in just for our bread. Some of our workers don’t like rhubarb, but they like the rhubarb (crumble.)’”
Miller said sourdough, once the staple of breads, is unique now.
“The texture, people describe it as more chewy,” Miller said and added that the product’s longevity is vastly different from breads of today.
“If I make some cinnamon rolls at home with a traditional recipe, the next day they are already starting to get not interesting to eat,” Miller said. “But with sourdough, it’s still soft, and has that nice feel to it.”
Sourdough starter is a living organism — a colony of yeast living in a mixture of flour and water.
“You will notice a flavor change if it sits for a day or two,” Miller said. “Like a bread, if you eat it (right out of the oven) it’s going to be good. But if you let it sit for half a day or even wait till the next morning, it’s going to be so much better. It’s such a unique beast. It’s a living beast. That’s what’s cool about it.”
Bell said she is very proud of Miller and Ponwith as they let their creativity flow during the development of Dough Fairy Delights and its goods.
Bell and her family received the sourdough starter from the Floccinni family. They have been able to track its origins to the 1880s from a small mining town in Bay Horse, Idaho.
“I’m excited for people to fall in love with bread again,” Bell said. “Bread’s kind of got a bad rap over the last couple years with the low-carb diets. They have their place for sure, but for thousands of years, bread was the staple of life. Wheat was something that people ate regularly, and people didn’t have a problem with it. I think (some problems people have digesting breads) is more closely related to a yeast issue than with the grain.”
Bell said that up until World War II, the only type of bread people ate was sourdough. Modern bread had been in development, but at the onset of the war, the military scaled up dry yeast breads to a point that they are the vast majority of breads today as they are cheaper and faster to produce.
“To me, the return to sourdough is something is really cool,” Bell said.
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